The Lederhosen A-Z: Every Tracht Term Explained
Outdated? Granddad's gear? Absolutely not. Today's Tracht is modern, meticulously crafted, and tells a story with every stitch.
There are very few garments that make a man look quite as good as a pair of lederhosen. But to understand what you are wearing, and to shop with confidence, it helps to know the language. Here is your complete A-Z of lederhosen terms, from Arschnaht to Zwickel.
A is for Arschnaht
The Arschnaht, the seat seam, reveals a lederhose's regional origins. In Eastern Bavaria, the Salzburg region, Tyrol and Upper Austria, it curves in a broad arc. That curved version is called the Tellernaht (see T). In the Allgäu, Styria and Carinthia, it typically runs straight up and down.
Arschnaht is the colloquial German name for it, and it means roughly what you think it means. Ask Mama Schnucki about that one at Schnucki Land.
B is for Bündel
The Bündel (or Bürsel) is the narrow band that finishes a pair of short lederhosen just above the knee. It is usually two to three centimetres wide. Some shorter styles are cut without a Bündel, which allows for a slightly shorter overall length.
C is for Charivari
The Charivari is an optional but wonderful accessory, provided it is the genuine article and not a cheap imitation. A real Charivari is a decorative chain hung at the front of the lederhosen. It collects charms, coins and small trophies accumulated over years. Think of it as the bangle bracelet of traditional Tracht. Some originals are worth as much as a small car.
D is for Dachauer Lederhose
The Dachauer Lederhose is a long-style lederhose with narrow legs that were traditionally tied at the ankle. The style developed in Dachau, near Munich, where boot-wearing traditions were common. Boots were useful in the heavy winters and boggy landscape of the region. Very few makers still produce this style today.
E is for Eichenlaubstickerei
Eichenlaubstickerei, oak leaf embroidery, is one of the best-known embroidery styles for lederhosen, alongside grape vine embroidery. The stitching can be done in beige, yellow, light green or dark green. On a quality pair of lederhosen, it is always done by hand.
F is for Federkielstickerei
Federkielstickerei, quill embroidery, is a centuries-old craft named for the material traditionally used: porcupine or bird quills. Belts, pouches and wallets are decorated in this painstaking technique. In traditional Tracht, the Federkielranzen, a quill-embroidered pouch, was historically used to carry money.
G is for Gerbung
Gerbung means tanning, the process of transforming raw animal hides into durable leather. For quality lederhosen the leather should be sämisch-gegerbt, or chamois-tanned, a traditional oil-tanning process rather than a chemical one. The tanning method makes a significant difference to how the leather wears, ages and feels.
H is for Hosenträger
Hosenträger, braces or suspenders, are not strictly necessary but add enormously to the full Tracht look. In some regions they carry real significance. In the Werdenfels region it was traditional for a bride to embroider braces for her future husband.
I is for Irch
Irch, or Irchfell, is Middle High German for buckskin: leather from a male deer or goat, often white-tanned. It is the historical material of some of the earliest traditional leather garments.
J is for Janker
The Janker is an essential piece of Tracht, a hip-length jacket made from boiled or felted wool. It traditionally has contrast edges and horn or metal buttons. The best-known styles are the Walkjanker, in felted wool, and the Kalmuck Janker, a textured weave. A Janker is the perfect layer over lederhosen when the Bavarian evening gets cool.
K is for Kurze
Lederhosen come in essentially two lengths: the Kurze, or shorts, and the Kniebund, knee-length. A third style, the long lederhose, belongs to less common regional boot-wearing traditions. The Kurze remains the most popular style.
L is for Latz
The Latz is the decorative front flap of the lederhosen, also called the Hosenlatz or Hosentürl. It is typically embroidered and is one of the most eye-catching features of the garment. The Latz has historical roots going back centuries of menswear tradition.
M is for Männlichkeit
Männlichkeit means masculinity, and Tracht expresses it beautifully. Traditional dress signals a connection to place, to heritage and to craftsmanship. Lederhosen are not just trousers; they are a statement of identity.
N is for Nicker
The Nicker, or Feitel, is the traditional hunting knife. It once had its own dedicated pocket in every pair of lederhosen. The handle is typically chamois horn or deer antler. Today a toothbrush with an antler handle is the tongue-in-cheek stand-in. Festival-goers would rather get through the door without incident.
O is for Oxidation
In chamois tanning, fats and special oils with tanning properties are worked into the hides. Once the tanning agents have fully penetrated the leather, the oils oxidise. That oxidation is what produces the tanning effect. It is a slower, more involved process than chemical tanning, and the results show in the leather's quality and longevity.
P is for Patina
Every pair of lederhosen needs a patina. The marks and character that come from years of regular wear are what give a Krachlederne its soul. A well-worn pair tells a story, and that story is part of their value. Small stains and scuffs are not flaws; they are earned.
Q is for Quersattel
The Quersattel is the horizontal crossbar strap that connects the two shoulder braces across the chest. In English you might call it the crossbar or chest strap. It is prime real estate for decoration: embroidery, carved motifs, initials and traditional Tracht patterns all appear here. Some of the most beautiful examples of Tracht needlework are found on the Quersattel.
R is for Ranzen
The Ranzen, also called a Geldkatze, is a traditional pouch or purse that forms part of certain regional men's Tracht. Often elaborately embroidered, it was historically used to carry money and small personal items.
S is for Säcklernaht
The Säcklernaht is a very special stitch and a hallmark of genuine, handcrafted quality. The leather edges are stitched together so that both edges remain visible from the outside. Between them a pale leather strip is inserted, a small and exquisite detail. If you see a Säcklernaht, someone made that pair by hand, with care.
S is also for Stutzen
No lederhosen outfit is complete without Stutzen, the traditional knee-length socks or stockings. The finest examples are hand-knitted, with patterns and motifs that are little works of art in themselves. The Stutzen frames the calf and anchors the whole look.
T is for Tellernaht
The Tellernaht is the curved seat seam found on lederhosen from Salzburg, Tyrol, Upper Austria and Eastern Bavaria. It curves across the seat like the rim of a plate, which is where the name comes from. In the Allgäu, Styria and Carinthia the seam runs straight up and down instead. It is both structural and decorative, and a reliable indicator of where a pair was made.
U is for Untertrittschlitz
The Untertrittschlitz is the small vent at the knee-band of a Kniebund lederhose. Shorter styles sometimes carry a version at the hem of the leg. It allows the leather to flex for ease of movement. That matters when you are sitting at a long bench table for the evening.
V is for Veloursleder
Veloursleder is a general term for leather with a napped or suede-like surface. It has a softer, more matte appearance than smooth leather and is used in some lederhosen styles.
W is for Waschen
Can you wash lederhosen? Technically yes, but it is a job best left to a professional leather specialist. Washing leather incorrectly is a genuine risk. When in doubt, spot-clean only, and consult an expert for anything more serious.
X is for X-Beine
Even knock-knees look good in lederhosen. The combination of lederhosen and Stutzen emphasises the calves and creates a strong, well-proportioned silhouette for every leg shape.
Y is for Y-Chromosom
You do not need a Y chromosome to wear lederhosen. Women have long worn lederhosen as Tracht, and they look brilliant in them. That is one of the great things about traditional dress: it belongs to everyone who loves it.
Z is for Zwickel
The Zwickel, sometimes spelled Zwickl, is a triangular leather insert at the back of the waistband. It is laced with a leather tie, so the waist can be let out or taken in. It is one of the reasons a quality pair of lederhosen can genuinely last a lifetime. They grow and adapt with you.
A Krachlederne built with this level of craft is an investment, one that gets better with age. Every pair of lederhosen at Schnucki has been hand-selected by Mama Schnucki herself, because great Tracht deserves to be chosen with the same care it was made with. New to Tracht? Start with the lederhosen buying guide. Prost.